I cook every day. Well, not quite—never on Friday (at the end of a typically busy week I am ready to be waited on). And usually on Tuesday and Thursday we eat something light upon our return from yoga. But most often that is something cooked at home. People are amazed by this. I, in turn, am amazed there is any other way to do it. I can't figure out what those amazed people eat. And they can't figure out where I find the time.
I thought it might help to share some of the methods I use to make eating at home at once easy and exotic. Okay, not exotic but certainly wonderful. So, from time to time I will post about what is up in my kitchen that I think would be helpful in yours. And I hope you will find that you don't have to spend two hours cooking to have something incredible. My intent is to share advice on appliances, recipes, shopping, the kitchen environment and general strategies for great eating.
Eating is fundamental so why not make it the best it can be? And next to sex, it is the most intimate way there is to connect with other people. Nothing makes me happier than having people love something I cooked for them.
The only drawback I have discovered is that once you find you can make such delicious and perfect food at home, restaurant eating can become a bit of a challenge. Fortunately, in Phoenix we have an abundance of really good restaurants, some of which are actually reasonably priced. So here anyway that is something we can all live with, right?
EDITION #1 HUNTER GATHERER
To start with, the acquisition of food can be complex and daunting. Cooking has parallels to DIY home repairs; without the proper planning you can find yourself running to the store repeatedly to make a single recipe. I used to do this but finally figured a way out of the trap. By properly stocking your pantry and fridge, this should become less and less of a problem over time as you acquire the range of items that make sense for you. Once you have the basics, you can concentrate on the perishable, which becomes less of a headache when you let the seasons make some of your decisions for you. This will eventually develop a rhythm that will only take as much time as you want to spend at it. And if it works out for you like it does me you may rarely visit a big chain grocery store, which in my view is a goal unto itself. Aside from the myriad benefits of shopping local, the grocery store experience always seemed like an arduous trek through a forest of consumerism, in short a chore.
I also pay attention to the corporate influences on food and I am here to tell you that while we do have access to an incredible (and almost embarrassing) array of food choices, that is at once a benefit and a curse. To get a good understanding of the big picture I recommend the recent documentary film, Food, Inc. It will open your eyes to the fact that many of the 48,000 items in the grocery story are rearrangements of corn molecules and controlled by only 4 companies. Kind of colors the concept of options a bit when you understand it.
Sure, I am familiar with the freezer section at the grocery store, but only because it houses ice cream (a rare indulgence, to be sure). I am also aware that the typical grocery carries over 48,000 food items (and tons of nonfood items that you probably don't need either but are nonetheless tempted to buy). That is just astonishing. But even more astonishing is, at least according to the film Food, Inc. almost all of those items come from just 4 companies and for the most part are rearranged corn. Yikes! I do not frequent those places, especially since I swore off Safeway who insulted me in a big way. I think I have been there once in 2 years. But I digress...
Rather, I make the rounds at just three places to acquire the bulk of the groceries we consume: the farmer's market, Costco (I never said I was not a consumer, just a picky one) and Trader Joe's. Once in awhile if I am making something in particular I will head to Fry's or Basha's (never liked the way those stores smell-the grease trap in the deli I believe is the culprit) or AJ's (if I am feeling particular flush with cash).
Oh yes, I do love Phoenix Ranch Market, the Disney land of Mexican cooking, but that is reserved for a special occasion. (Here is the link so you can get an idea of what it is all about: http://www.prosranch.com/Default.aspx). I understand there is an Asian equivalent, Lee Lee Oriental Supermarket out in the hinterlands of Peoria and Chandler http://www.yelp.com/biz/lee-lee-oriental-market-peoria-2 but I have yet to plan a special day for that. It sounds like a version of 99 Ranch at the COFCO center which has been replaced by Super L Ranch Market where I have not visited in years, rarely being out that way.
I am also lucky to have a friend with a mob of poultry in her yard so I get fresh chicken, duck and turkey eggs fairly often. A side benefit is that the varieties of fowl produce eggs in colors so I don't have to fiddle around with dyes at Easter. And duck eggs are especially good for use in recipes as they are about twice the size of chicken eggs. But my favorite duck egg use is in lemon curd—so good. Urban chicken raising was a fad last year; many people were touting how easy it is to raise them in your yard, just like they have been thumping compost piles for many years. I am not that adventurous or energetic.
THE PANTRY LIST
One of the special features of the cookbooks Judy Walker and I worked on together was the pantry list. This stroke of Judygenius really made me pay attention to what I had on hand. That and the hour I spent one time organizing her spice cabinet after a move; alphabetization was the only way to make sense of it. When I remodeled my own kitchen some years later, a favorite feature is the slide out pantry shelves, which are in two sizes: the entire 16-inch width in one; the other is split down the middle, giving two six- inch shelves with access from either side. The larger shelf works well for small appliances and boxes of cereal, bags of chips and bulkier items. The smaller variety is perfect for cans, bottles, and smaller bagged items and such. This is one thing I don't know how I did without.
The contents of that pantry represent a wide array of possibilities. For example, at any given time I can make probably 50 different types of salad dressing.
Here is a list of things that I try to have on hand at all times:
Fresh, Keep On Hand Most of the Time
Note: Most produce I buy weekly at the farmer's market. The beautiful part is that the selection changes with the seasons, but there are some things that you can always get, like onions and tomatoes. The non-refrigerated items listed here are weekly purchases and are almost always available. I keep them in a basket on a shelf way from direct sunlight.
Onions: yellow, white and/or red, shallot, (I recently bought a bag of pearl onions at Trader Joe's which combined all colors-those went a long way and were easy to store);
Garlic: A fresh head of garlic. I also keep granulated garlic in a jar which is transferred from the bag found on the wall in the "Hispanic" section of a traditional grocery store. Although this handy form of garlic is not fresh, having it also in your pantry is not redundant; it is great for seasoning meat and salads and for uses when fresh is not the preferred consistency.
Limes: Great for food and cocktails. Mineral water in lime is also nice. I buy Pellegrino by the case; it has the nutrients from the minerals that are wiped out by the reverse osmosis so it is bubbly and healthy.
Lemons: You should always have at least one lemon in the house. If it looks like it is going to dry up before you can use it, squeeze it over a salad or juice it into a bottle which keeps well in the fridge. Zest the rind and store it in the fridge as well.
Tomatoes: A cluster of tomatoes on the vine do well over the course of the week on the island. A handful of Romas which are great for snacking look beautiful in a cobalt blue bowl on my fridge shelf.
Potatoes/sweet potatoes/yams: I don't necessarily always have these on hand; sweet potatoes more often that white or red potatoes but I do occasionally have a potato in a meal. I really love the purple potatoes and buy them whenever I see them.
Squash: Hard squashes are pretty seasonal but they keep for a very long time and they look great on the counter in the meanwhile.
Refrigerator
Green onions/leeks
Cilantro/ parsley: Very often the bunch is far more than I will use during its fresh period. I hang them from a magnetic clip stuck on the cooktop hood until they dry and then relegate them to a jar. I have a bunch of dill doing that this very moment. Dill is not around for long so it is best to grab it while it is there.
Cheese: cheddar is usually in the cheese drawer with a chunk of Parmesan. I usually rotate through others such as feta, gouda, goat for having a quick snack available or for a recipe. Mascarpone is a versatile cream style cheese for sweet and savory uses.
Catsup
Salsa
Milk: I buy 1% and the occasional whipping cream if I am doing something special or half and half.
Eggs: Hickman's eggs are locally farmed. It is a commercial family owned operation. They do a great job and their eggs are every bit as acceptable as "free range" eggs. Temple Grandin, who is currently the subject of an HBO movie, has brought great reform to animal processing through her autism which allows her to "see" what the animals do. As she noted, farmed animals would never have been born if it were not for their value as food. Her changes have increased awareness and added a humane element to the process. The Hickman's have not been subject to corporate pressure to conform to inhumane treatment of their chickens and are part of "Operation Good Egg." Google them and read about it.
Butter: I am a huge fan of butter; never touch margarine. I picked up whole pound butter last time and actually enjoyed cutting my own sticks, but that is probably a bit over the top for most people.
Mustards: A variety of mustards can be very accommodating; Dijon is a must, but a coarse grain German is also nice and champagne mustard is an indulgence that might stay around for a while.
Mayonnaise
Greek style yogurt: A recent discovery, this is by far the best yogurt ever. It has a wonderful consistency. I used it and a bit of mayo in avocado dip and it was the best I have ever made in thirty years.
Prosciutto or other cold cut of the week
End cuts of bacon: These come from the local pork grower and are so much better than strips. First they are not nearly as messy to cook, they are in chunks and render a nice amount of fat that should be reserved for other uses, and they make a perfect starter for all kinds of dishes. Another wonderful discovery is guanciale, unsmoked bacon from the pork jowl. Chef Wade Moises of the Pasta Bar (the best restaurant in Phoenix) asked the folks at The Meat Shop, local pig farmer/pork purveyors for it. They in turn told me about it one day when they were out of the bacon ends at the Farmer's Market. It is amazing and is used in the same way as the bacon ends. Guanciale is the true basis for pasta carbonara.
Broth-chicken, beef, vegetable: You simply cannot cook without broth. It is a miracle ingredient. You can spend lots of time making your own, but why do that when you can by Better Than Broth and have a concentrated base at the ready? I keep a jar of each of these flavors in stock at all times.
Freezer
Chicken: boneless, skinless breasts; thighs; wings; whole chickens-I rotate these through depending upon what veggies are in season, but I almost always have some breast and thigh meat on hand.
Ground beef /sirloin, pork, lamb, turkey-The best ground beef comes from Costco. Buy a big package and break it down into useable portions to freeze.
Short ribs: bone-in or boneless; either way these are a versatile cut of meat that is always tender and flavorful, great for braising, one of my favorite techniques.
Pork chops, boneless, thick cut: Costco is a great source. These babies are very handy for stir fry dishes and the like. Also, these braise up nicely and can be cut in have to render two nice size cutlets, giving them extra versatility.
Shrimp, salmon and occasionally other varieties of fish/seafood
Peas and organic white corn: these are great for throwing into a quick batch of fried rice or a soup
Packaged and Canned
Oil: olive, canola
Tomatoes, diced: I buy a Costco case so I always have them on hand.
Tomatoes with green chiles: Brands like Rotel come is small 5 ounce sizes which are most handy
Green chiles: whole, diced; of course there is nothing like the fall scent of fresh roasted green chiles and those can be frozen as well but they never last through the winter. The canned are needed for the off season.
Beans, dried and canned: pinto, great Northern, heirloom beans, garbanzoes, black-eyed peas, bean combination mixtures, black beans, small white beans, canned refried beans, peas-green/yellow, and Tepary beans, which are native to Arizona and come in 3 colors, are extremely versatile, quick cooking and rather small so they don't get mushy in soups
Tuna
Tomato sauce/paste
Chipotles: most easily found canned in Adobo sauce, I prefer the dried version which come in packets in the Hispanic section of the typical Southwest grocery store; brands are Mohave, Tampico and El Guapo
Pure red chile powder and/or cayenne (red pepper)
Cumin: seeds, I like to crush them with a mortar and pestle, a throwback but very effective and energizing and easier to clean than an electric grinder, mine is marble
Coriander: seeds (see above)
Anise or fennel: seeds
Star anise: whole
Red chile flakes
Dried chiles, such as ancho, tepins, guajillo
Bay leaves
Pine nuts
Mexican pepitas or shelled pumpkin seeds
Rice: basmati, jasmine, arborio, brown, wild
Quinoa
Barley
Pasta
Crackers
Tortillas: whole wheat flour, corn, chips
Nonstick cooking sprays: plain,
Dried fruit: dates, currants, raisins, figs, cranberries/cherries (especially for granola) and apricots
Vinegar: Balsamic, rice or seasoned rice, red wine and apple cider vinegar
Sundried tomatoes
Almonds, pecans, walnuts, pine nuts, peanuts: Nuts also do very well in the freezer
Oatmeal: Buy the giant bag and store in the freezer; great for homemade granola
Curry powder: There are literally thousands of curries; find one you like or make up your own, or keep several on hand
Cloves
Cinnamon-stick and powdered
Ginger-powdered
Bay leaves
Saffron threads
Flour
Sugar
Agave nectar
Salt: sea, kosher
Black pepper, whole and ground
Vanilla
Baking powder
Baking soda
Yeast
Cocoa powder
Peppermint syrup or peppermint flavoring
Buttermilk baking powder
Dried milk
Evaporated milk
Coconut milk
You may wish to include herbs like rosemary, oregano and basil. I have plants in my yard but using the technique I mentioned in the cilantro/parsley entry in the Refrigerator section above works for the inevitable plethora you will end up with from buying a fresh bunch.
This list and some good cookbooks/magazines will get you off to a roaring start. I still regularly consult my ancient Betty Crocker cookbook. My favorite all time book is the pre-1990's Joy of Cooking (I gave this to my grandmother one time-she was a magician with her specialties—I still crave her donuts—and she wondered aloud how she managed all those years without it.) But the best of the best is Taunton's Fine Cooking magazine. I have issues 40-90 on my shelf and I consult them almost daily. The annual index is a quick way to find a recipe to fit the food you have on hand. The approach is clean and clear and comes with great pictures. For years I have been referring to a fabulous master braising recipe. Only recently I went back and looked at the article and discovered it was penned by Tom Colicchio, head Top Chef, the Bravo channel show that I am addicted to. The magazine issue came out years before the show. It was like discovering that my favorite sugar cookie recipe was invented by Mrs. Fields. Who knew!
I promise the next installment will not be so "meaty." In the meanwhile, if you want to interact, please comment/ask questions. I would love to make this interactive. It could be the next best thing to the next best thing to sex.
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